Bulbs Bulbs Bulbs …

 Bulbs Bulbs Bulbs ... I got a little carried away at Lowe’s last weekend and bought this ginormous pile of bulbs. There are 80 King Arthur daffodils (the really big ones), 160 mixed tulips, 100 scilla and almost 100 crocus bulbs. Oh, and some narcissus — most of which I’ll put away for winter because I like to force them in the house — Patrick used to hate the smell of them, but since it’s four years today that he made that terrible error in judgement (don’t drive drunk, people), I guess one upside is that I can force as many narcissus bulbs in the winter as I want to. You have to look at the positives in these situations.

It’s a big weekend for projects. The pork bellies are in! So it’s time to start the pancetta, and perhaps the Americanized version of Jacquy’s terrine from Pork and Sons, one of my favorite cookbooks of the year (I’m subbing moose liver for pork liver, bourbon for armangac). Not only are the pork bellies here but I got my first delivery of real milk yesterday …

 Bulbs Bulbs Bulbs ... My point-and-shoot doesn’t show the layer of cream very well, but there was nearly a pint of gorgeous cream on the top of this milk. I ladeled it off, added some buttermilk, shook it all up and have set it out to make créme fraiche. I also scalded a little more than a quart’s worth and I’m making yogurt using these terrific instructions posted by a professor of biology and chemistry in Ohio. I’ll post a photo if it comes out okay. A gallon of milk a week is sort of a lot for me, but I like the challenge of figuring out what to do with it — learning to make yogurt, or mozzarella so that I don’t waste a homegrown product. It’s akin to my feeling about learning to cook the game my friends shoot — my milk lady raised the nice Jersey cows, she milks them herself and delivers this gorgeous gallon jar of milk to me. Now it’s up to me to figure out how to make the most out of what feels to me like a gift (even though I pay her for milk). So I’m learning to make yogurt, and cheese, and pudding also occurred to me the other day — a nice vanilla pudding. Yum.

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Dry Aging the Moose

 Dry Aging the Moose I stopped by to get some moose liver yesterday and look what’s hanging in the garage — a moose in quarters! It’ll be there for about ten days or two weeks while the MH is in Michigan hunting grouse with a client.

I know a lot of people are grossed out by this part, but what can I say? I think there’s a part of me that must always have wanted to be a butcher — I find the process of breaking down carcasses into something lovely to eat fascinating.

It’s part of the reason I’m looking forward to making the pancetta (the pork belly is still on order) or the terrines I’m planning to do with the moose liver. The more I garden, and get meat and eggs and (soon!) milk from people I actually know, who knew the animals, the more skeeved out I get by industrial food. It’s creeping up on me, this localism.

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30 Pounds of Moose Liver

“Do you want some moose liver?” the MH asked this weekend. “I’ve got 30 pounds of it.”

“Sure,” I answered. “I’ll take some — I’ll probably just make paté though.”  I mean, I was game for antelope liver last fall, but moose? Moose are enormous — the one that the MH’s son shot this weekend was six hundred pounds! And it wasn’t even a particularly large moose.

I have to admit, I have mixed feelings about the moose. The MH was so excited when Robbie won the tag in the lottery this year, and the photo he sent me of Robbie with his dead moose is a picture of a very happy kid who has just had a great hunting experience with his dad, and so I’m happy for them. But I don’t really see the point of hunting a moose — they’re not renowned for their deliciousness (unlike antelope, my favorite, or even elk which are quite tasty). And it’s not like we’re totally overrun with moose — although they are scary and ornery and will charge a dog or a person if annoyed (which seems to be their usual state of being). So, like I said, I’m ambivalent about the moose.

But on the other hand, the MH and his son had a real experience out there on Saturday morning, and spent a couple of good father-son weekends before that hunting up the moose — and Robbie now has a set of antlers for his wall, and we’re all going to be eating a lot of moose this winter. Because if there’s anything I know about the MH, it’s that he isn’t a trophy hunter,  and he hates waste. Moose tacos? Wonder what those will taste like …

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Read the Book …

They’ve made a movie of Ron Hansen’s brilliant novel, The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford — and it’s reviewed in today’s New York Times. It’s a brilliant novel, and so, I have mixed feelings about the movie version. On the one hand, it’s great that Ron Hansen, a novelist I deeply admire (and one on whom I had a serious crush for any number of years — but alas, he went and got married again), gets a pile of money, and with any luck will sell a bunch of copies of the book.

But since the glory of Hansens’ novels, especially the early ones where he was learning his craft, lies in their sentences, I have a hunch that the movie cannot help but fall short in some odd ways. The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford is full of sentences like these:

Jesse came to the boardinghouse with divinity fudge and a red paper heart on which he’d doggereled about ardor, and as Jesse nudged a lizard’s fringe of flame from some embering logs…

Jesse shot John Sheets in the head and heart and the banker drained off the chair.

But then Lull’s right hand glided down to a derringer and he shot it at John Younger, cutting into the jugular vein so that it surged red sleeves of blood out even as the dying boy got off a shot and killed Lull.

Bob Younger was a debonair man with a blond mustache and short brown hair and expressive eyebrows that seemed to crave a monocle. Charlie Pitts was an alias for Samuel Wells, a sometime cowhand with a handsome sunburned head that was square as a chimney, whose skin was so unclean dirt laced it like rainwater stains on tan wallpaper.

And to convince the acting cashier of that, Pitts snuck behind him with a pocket knife and slit the skin of his throat. Joseph L. Heywood was stunned. he was a slender man in his thirties with a dark beard and a scholar’s look—he could have been an algebra teacher, someone conservative and cultures, and he was, in fact, a trustee at Carleton College. Cut, he looked at Jesse with rebuke in his face as his neck unsealed and blood rolled down his collar like a red shade being drawn.

They weren’t penitent over what they’d attempted; their sorrow reached to the limits of their bodies and no further, all their anguish was in their skin.

The problem inherent in making movies from books like The Assassination of Jesse James by the Coward Robert Ford (as well as with every movie made from Jim Harrison’s books) is that when you have these writers who take as their central concern essentially romantic material like the settling of the west, outlaws, and Indians, there’s always a danger of falling into sentimentality. The really good ones, like Hansen and Harrison and Rick Bass, avoid this trap by virtue of their skill with language. It’s their sentences that save the work. Their sentences that make it art.

Film, however, is a visual medium, not a linguistic medium, and hence the problem with books like Hansen’s or like Legends of the Fall is that when stripped of their language they wind up as mawkish or sentimental movies (I mean really, can anyone forgive Anthony Hopkins for portraying the aging and broken-hearted Ludlow as some kind of demented Quasimodo?).

It’s not that I don’t want to see the movie version of Jesse James — from the NY Times review it sounds like they tried to convey the poetry of Hansen’s prose as visually as possible (and I like Brad Pitt when he plays westerns — he is from Missouri originally, so at least he’ll get the accent right). Film and fiction are both about stories, but it just bugs me that because the mediums share a central task, there’s too often an assumption that they’re interchangeable. What makes a great novel does not always make a great movie and vice versa (can you imagine anything more awful than a novelization of say, the Seventh Seal?).

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Big Fat Beans …

 Big Fat Beans ... I don’t think my point-and-shoot does justice to the glory of these beans. These are runner cannelini beans that I grew from the package I ordered from Steve Sando at Rancho Gordo back last spring when we were all discussing Carlo Petrini’s ill-advised and ill-considered remarks about the Ferry Plaza Farmer’s Market.

I’ve had terrible luck with beans since I moved here. I couldn’t figure it out — who can’t grow a bean for goodness sake? But something kept skeletonizing my beans every spring — and so this year I pulled out a whole bed of hollyhock and sunflower that was close to the vegetable garden. It was kind of a messy bed and so I cleaned it up and put a couple of shrub roses in instead. I love the hollyhocks around here — they grow wild in yards and alleys — but they’re buggy. Flea beetles seem to love the hollyhocks, and so, by cleaning them up, I seem to have solved the bean problem.

These beans grew like gangbusters. I grew scarlet runners, runner cannelini, romas, borlotti, flageolet, and a few others I can’t remember right now. The runner cannelini beans are so beautiful! They’re big, fat, gorgeous white beans. I’ve never seen such big fat beans and once my lamb arrives late this month, I think there’s going to have to be a party involving a leg of lamb and a big dish of gorgeous white cannellini beans with thyme and garlic and olive oil.

The Borlotti are also unbelievable — pod after pod filled with lovely speckled beans. I’ve been shelling beans for days now and last night I made a yummy pot of fresh borlotti beans with sauteed onion and carrot and tomatoes from the garden — it was beautiful and delicious and in my current state of Little House of Food Preservation, I’m just beyond tickled to be drying out my own beans for the winter.

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Pancetta on hold …

Just called to order a pork belly and it’s going to be a week or so — Matt’s Meats, my local butcher, is making bacon in 2 weeks, so they’re putting in an order for pork belly and are going to set one aside for me.
Stay tuned — since Ruhlman himself has ordered me to make the pancetta, I guess I’m making a pancetta. (I hope he’s willing to take email questions if I get stuck).

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Harvest craziness …

I’ve been in a frenzy of food preservation here at LivingSmall. Saturday I pulled and washed and cut and blanched and drained two six-gallon trash cans full of endive. I then wrapped the blanched endive in towels to squeeze out the water and sealed it in bags using my vaccuum sealer and froze them for later this winter.

I also shredded the outer leaves that looked okay but not really nice enough to put up for winter and I’m experimenting with making sauerkraut from them — we’ll see how it works out. Right now, it looks like wet salty leaves in the bottom of a pot. But it seemed a waste to compost them when there’s a chance they might be good  — and somehow, along with my frenzy of food preservation I’ve become Enamored of Fermentation.

Maybe it was Ruhlman’s Charcuterie, which I bought with the proceeds of a huge box of books I sold to Powells using their fabulous online book-buying service.  I gave this to the Mighty Hunter last year for Christmas, and while I’m sure I could have borrowed it, I wanted a copy for my own. I’m currently overcome with the desire to make a pancetta — I need to call my local butcher tomorrow and order a pork belly.

Order a pork belly? What has come over me? Sauerkraut? Home-cured meats? I may also call my local source of raw milk and order some — she only sells it by the gallon but I figure I could make some yogurt that would be delicious, and Barbara Kingsolver has a whole section in Animal Vegetable Miracle about how easy it is to make one’s own mozzarella.

Make my own cheese? Again, something has come over me — one of my periodic Little House on the Prairie phases  — but I love the idea of knowing how to make basic food stuffs. I love the idea of knowing how to put things by, and I’m always convinced that home made is better than what you can buy in the store.

Of course it could also be plain old writerly procrastination. I’m up against some difficult material in the book I’m writing — so what better solution than to cure my own pancetta! make my own cheese!

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Friday Linky Goodness …

Because it’s Friday, and because we ate and drank just a tiny bit too much last night at Patrick’s Posthumous Birthday party (which was delightful and jolly and because our friend Jim hung Patrick’s picture on the restaurant wall, it sort of felt like he was among us) — this morning LivingSmall brings you that staple of the exhausted blogger: a list of links.

Hugh Fearnly-Wittingstall expounds on the joys of hunting mushrooms (and I wish I lived in England so I could have gotten the free mushroom guide with my copy of the Guardian). If it ever manages to rain before the first snow, we might have some fall mushrooms here. Spring is more reliable in our climate but I’m still hoping for some fall boletes or chanterelles.

I can’t remember how I found this great article about Angelo Pellegrini, but it’s worth a read: Man of the Earth Reaps the Good Life
If anyone had doubts about how a garden can reap change, go read this terrific piece in Orion about a community that built a garden as a response to a drive-by shooting: A Community Garden is More than a Garden

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Birthday again …

Patrick would be 42 today — it’s always a bittersweet day, to say the least. But even though he’s no longer with us, I like to celebrate his memory on his birthday. Like the Day of the Dead when we decorate graves with flowers and take our dead relatives their favorite foods and drinks as a way of reminding them, and ourselves, that although we’ve been separated, we never really do lose on another.

So tonight we’re all having dinner tonight at our friend Jim’s restaurant. We had Patrick’s last birthday there — it was a fun and festive evening — and at one point my darling brother, wearing a kid’s blue cone-shaped birthday hat, looked up from the end of the table to make a toast. “Despite some setbacks,” he said. “This has been one of the happiest years of my life. Thank you for being such great friends and for welcoming us into your lives.”

And so, in memory of Patrick, a guy who had to start over more times than anyone should have had to, and who was nonetheless someone who managed to keep looking for the positive in every situation, here’s a great post at zen habits called “Why Living a Life of Gratitude Can Make You Happy.”

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