My trip last week was a great success — my mother and I had a very fun time together, and we found two apartment buildings that look interesting and cool and that she can afford — but it was a busy week. I put just over 1000 miles on the rental car, but the trip did have some very restorative aspects, one of which was the amount of time I got to spend in my friend Posy’s garden. Because there was no wi-fi connection in the guest house, I had to take refuge under this beautiful pergola, which looked out over this lovely perennial garden.
It was pretty swell out there, and at night there are some little lights tucked up in the beams of the pergola. I lucked out on the weather as well — it was lovely and warm in Chicago the whole week — beautiful fall weather.
Now Posy and I have a sort of mutual-admiration society that started when she moved into our neighborhood when I was about four. Apparently, I dragged Patrick up the driveway and said “Hi, I’m Char and this is Pat — do you have any kids we can play with?” She did — and so we stayed and I swear I spent half my childhood there — it’s been a great joy to become actual friends as adults as well — we had a great time catching up and as always, I’m enormously grateful for her friendship and hospitality.
Monthly Archives: September 2008
Off to Chicago ….
Winter Trick
All summer I was getting up about 5:30 because that’s when the sun came up and I was really enjoying it. I had time to get a lot done before having to sign on at work — write a blog post, walk the dog, water the garden. It was lovely. And then the earth tilted back the other way and I found it harder and harder to get up in the morning.
I thought about buying one of those fancy light alarm clocks that are supposed to simulate the sun rising — you set the timer and they gradually light up the room. But they were expensive. I just couldn’t see paying almost a hundred bucks for an ugly dome-shaped light thingy. So I went to the hardware store and bought a timer for eight bucks. I put the lamp on the far side of the bed on the timer.
It’s brilliant. The alarm goes off at 5:30 and I turn it off. Five minutes later (not clever on my part, just hard to set the timer accurately) the light goes on. Then the dogs and I hang out for another ten minutes or so and I’m up and making tea by quarter to six. At least for me, not having the option of putting off turning on the light has really helped. Click. On it goes. We’ll see how well it works in the dead of winter when it’s really dark, and cold, and the last thing anyone wants to do is get out of bed, but for now, it’s really working well.
Half a Pig …
Just as I was reading this article in the SF Chronicle about people buying meat shares (which mentions my friend Bonnie over at Ethicurean and her meat CSA she’s starting), Matt, my butcher called to say that my pig was ready. Well, half a pig, actually. I bought it from my Milk Lady, and while it was stupendously expensive, what can I say? I grew up with the heirs to the Armour and Swift fortunes and well, I’d rather buy Isabelle’s kids new school clothes. Plus, if her pork is anything like the delicious Jersey milk or those eggs I buy from her, well, then it’s going to be a stupendous pig. Really, the eggs have ruined me — last time I went to California for work I nearly cried over the crappy fried egg they served me for breakfast. It didn’t taste like anything. Certainly it didn’t taste anything like the gorgeous eggs I’ve gotten used to buying from Isabelle — eggs that have yolks the color of marigolds, yolks that stand up at attention. They’re gorgeous.
Here’s a wheelbarrow full of pig. The reason it was at Matt’s for a while was that he made me a ham and a couple of hocks. And butchered.
Isabelle suggested doing half a ham and having Matt cut the rest into steaks — he makes the best ham, but really, for little old me? a whole ham? Either I have a party or give it away — so I’m going to try this out. Ham slabs. The rest of it I just had butchered like normal — I have a big loin roast, which has dinner party written all over it, a lot of chops, a couple of shoulder roasts which I had him cut in half so they’re smaller, a bunch of packages of coarsely ground pork I can use for pates and sausages, and a big old slab of side pork that I’m going to make into another pancetta. There’s also a big bag of fat I’m going to render into lard, and a package of neck bones. I didn’t get the head or the feet — Matt said they came in to him without them and although I considered chasing down a head to make guanciale or head cheese out of, after seeing this video of Chris Cosentino butchering a pigs head (actually, I couldn’t get through the video, the prospect of brains and eyeballs freaked me out), well, I decided if I couldn’t watch the video I wasn’t going to be able to deal with the head. Maybe next year.
Because I’m leaving town next week I had to just cram it all into the freezer (although I might render that lard before I go). There’s still a significant amount of lamb and antelope in there from past purchases (and the Mighty Hunter and his son say they’ll restock me with antelope), so I tried to be organized — big stuff in the back, smaller stuff like chops up front where I can just grab one. And then the slab of side pork — luckily it fit, I was a little worried.
So there it is. A year’s worth of pork in my freezer. It was expensive but I know where all the money went — to two people I really like, my Milk Lady and my butcher. I know that pig was fed nothing but good stuff, including a lot of fallen apples and greens from the garden. I know that pig was leading a happy piggy life until the Milk Lady’s husband snuck up and shot it in it’s pen, so it never went to a feedlot or a scary slaughterhouse. All in all, if you’re going to eat meat, and even I’m trying to cut back, I’d rather know where it came from and who raised it and perhaps even more important, I’d rather put my money into my local community. (Plus that crammed freezer, like my pantry full of pasta, makes me happy. At least I’m not going to starve this winter. I can even feed many of my friends.)Tonight I’m going to start out with a little ham slab, maybe cooked with some garden carrots and potatoes, in a little white wine and herbs. Mmm.
September Mourning
It’s been a weird week — starting with the outpouring of false sentiment over the 9/11 anniversary. I’ve come to dread it, that upwelling of sentiment, the appropriation of tragedy by those only tangenitally affected, the politicians and blowhards pontificating about how we are all changed forever. I’m not talking about the real grief of those who lost loved ones, I’m talking about the obscene way that the day has been spun and abused and turned into a sentimental touchstone. I hate it. Luckily I don’t watch much television, so I missed most of the worst of it.
September 13 was my brother Patrick’s birthday, and he was killed on the 27th, so September is always a tricky month around here. But so far, it’s been okay this year. I have a dear friend who just lost his love after a valiant fight with pancreatic cancer and watching him go through this makes it clear to me how far I’ve come. I’m out of that tunnel, the one where all you can hear is the thrum of your own pain and disbelief, like a loud heartbeat whooshing in your ears. One of my oldest friends lost her two older sisters and her father in a plane wreck when she was thirteen — it took her decades to come to terms with it and I remember last summer, she said she was on a pack trip with a bunch of girlfriends and realized it was her sister’s birthday. She told me how nice it was to remember the day without being torn apart by it, and that’s how I felt this year. I miss him every day, but it is an enormous relief to have arrived at the 13th this year and find that it was okay. It was a day. I missed my brother as always, but it wasn’t the icicle to the heart that it’s been in years past.
And then David Foster Wallace killed himself. I’ve found myself the past few days surfing Google reader, looking for anything I could find about this. I feel a little weird writing about it because I didn’t study with him, I didn’t know him personally, and I didn’t love his work the way many did. In a way, being as sad as I have been about this the last few days feels like the false sentiment that so upsets me each year about the blort of 9/11 commemoration. Throughout those years in graduate school when I was writing my novel, my relationship with David Foster Wallace’s work was one of false opposition. I found myself in a writing program that was obsessed with literary fashion, one where everyone was chasing David Foster Wallace’s tail. Although I didn’t want to write like David Foster Wallace, I admired the way he seemed to be doggedly creating his own aesthetic, writing as if digging a tunnel through language and grammar itself toward that chimera of postmodernism, the Truth — truth he sought even as, it seemed, he couldn’t quite bring himself to believe it existed. For all the surface pyrotechnics of his work, there was always a big tender heart there, it was postmodernism with soul.
And yet, it ends with a rope around the neck, his wife coming home to that terrible sight, the outpouring of tributes to his artistic genius and personal sweetness. It ends with a lot of bewilderment, and his brokenhearted father telling the New York times that the meds had stopped working, he’d been in and out of the hospital for the last year or so, they’d tried ECT and it hadn’t worked. I lived with a lot of depressives in my life, including my beloved Patrick, and it’s a terrible disease. It turns the minute-by-minute experience of living into an ongoing, relentless crisis. I think of all the things I’ve learned in these last few days about David Foster Wallace that’s the one that really breaks my heart. That he lived for as long as he did in that kind of pain. That he created the astonishingly inventive books that he did. Like Virginia Woolf, the point is not that they were both mentally ill, but that despite their struggles with mental illness they managed to create books that changed the landscape in which the rest of us write.
While I’ve managed to get through this month of anniversaries in reasonably good shape, I think the reason I’ve been so obsessed with David Foster Wallace’s death, aside from the general sorrow when someone dies who has changed the landscape of the medium in which you’re trying to work, is that the most difficult thing for me to get through about Patrick’s death was the role depression played. Patrick had been fighting a fierce battle in the months before he died, a battle that was waged minute by minute. I’d been doing what I could, but as anyone who has lived with someone who is stuck in that hole will tell you, there is very little you can do. Whether Patrick’s death was an accident or an act of impulse, it was depression that led to him driving his truck off that embankment that night. Sweet, big-hearted, talented people can be hollowed out — I suppose that’s why I’ve been so obsessed with Wallace’s death. It’s not just that death itself is incomprehensible on a personal level — that the people we love can just disappear — but then there’s this other thing — this dark cloud that can steal the people we love away from us right before our eyes. That nothing we do can help. That we can’t help someone we love who is in terrible pain.
Add to that the general terror of the times — we’re at war, our financial markets are collapsing, and our artists are losing their will to live — it all feels very ominous. And so I do what I always do when I get the existential wobbles. I go outside and work in the garden. I pick tomatoes. I make sauce and boil jars and put up pints of tomato sauce for winter. I make something (even if it’s not a new novel). All we can do, as the Dalai Lama tells us, is to make positive effort for the good. Sometimes that feels like a very small effort, but if it can push back the darkness, then I suppose that’s the best we can hope for.
Making it up as you go along …
I don’t have a photo of last night’s yummy dinner because well, I ate it instead of photographing it, but it was one of those delicious surprises that happen sometimes when you’re just making something out of what you have. I had a bunch of tomatoes that were about to go bad on me — not enough for a real pot of sauce, three or four big-ish red ones, a few Jaunne Flammes and a handful of cherries. I dithered for a while because I didn’t really feel like cooking, I felt more like heating something up but I didn’t want to eat any of the stuff in the fridge. So back to the tomatoes.
I put on a pot, sliced one of my little onions from the garden (they’re just a little bigger than a golf ball, most of them) and one of the three cayenne peppers that I’ve gotten so far this year and started sauteeing them. I threw in a clove of garlic, cored and chopped the tomatoes and put them in at a pretty brisk simmer. The tomatoes gave off a fair amount of juice and although it looked a little soupy, it smelled good. I put on some water for penne and while the penne was starting to cook I went out to look under the plastic to see if there’s any basil. The basil in the regular garden is toast — if we didn’t have a hard frost we certainly had a soft frost sometime this week. But under the plastic was the nicest looking basil I’ve had all summer — I picked a handful and as I came back through the garden I remembered the handful of roma beans I picked earlier in the week. (The season got such a late start that I’m afraid I’m not going to have beans to freeze like last year.)
I love roma beans and they’re one of those things I grow because you can’t really buy them around here. The beans are what took this simple little dinner up a notch from good, to really good. I topped the beans, cut them into inch long pieces and threw them in with the penne, which had another 7 minutes to go. When the timer went off, I drained the penne/beans, added them to the sauce and let it all simmer for a minute or two so the flavors would blend. A little parmesan and this was a great dinner. The beans were perfect — cooked all the way through but with a little tooth to them still, and roma beans and tomato are a great combo.
This is what I really love about cooking from the garden, the sort of dithery, hmm, what should I try next aspect of it. I’ve learned to cook things I didn’t have any experience with before this garden: roma beans, chard, kale, strange Italian greens I buy from Seeds of Italy because they look interesting.
Tomatoes Under Plastic
It happens every year at Labor Day — the weather gets threatening and we all swathe our tomatoes in some sort of jerry-rigged cold frame/greenhouse kind of thing. One reason I’ve always sort of liked the trellis-and-string method is because it also provides a handy structure to hold the plastic up.
With the new beds up against the fence like that, I just stapled the plastic to the fence, then draped it over the top of the bamboo and it’s held down with rocks. Lots of rocks. Big rocks because Livingston is windy. I also filled a bunch of wall-o-waters and stuck them in there in between the plants to try to help out with thermal mass. They’re helping a little — keeping it about 3 degrees warmer overnight inside the beds than outside, and well, that three degrees can go a long way. Where the plastic is really performing though is in the daytime — yesterday we had a little thin sunshine after the fog burned off, and when it was 50 degrees outside, it was 94 inside the plastic. Tomatoes (and the peppers that are in there) like heat, so I’m hoping for a few more sunny days (today is supposed to go up to 80 — I might have to open the poor things up and give them some air) to ripen what looks like a great crop of tomatoes.
I’m pretty happy with the varieties I grew this year — I’ll definitely do the Sasha’s Altai again — they not only ripened early but were delicious. Prairie Fire ripened early, but was only okay — it was a nondescript small round tomato. I still haven’t found a cherry I’m entirely happy with — the Galina’s are good but don’t ripen that early, and the Black Cherry I grew this year is also nice but again, didn’t ripen significantly earlier than anything else. I don’t like the supersweet modern hybrids (just like I don’t like the supersweet sweet corn people are growing these days — I want corn that tastes like corn, not like candy), so I’ll probably shop around for a couple more cherries next year. The Milano Plum is a fabulous tomato — bigger and meatier than the Principe Borghese and bears heavily. The Jaunne Flamme was a husge success — they did really well and taste fabulous. I’m currently fermenting a little jar of seed to use next year. And the Marglobes, what can I say — Marglobes are like that guy you have a crush on who you can’t quite get over. They seem so promising, and I every year I think see — this time it’s going to be great — but they never quite perform like I want them to — they grow gorgeous big green tomatoes that never seem to quite ripen in time, and then I wind up eating them ripened in the basement, wrapped in newspaper, and they taste sour. I might have to finally give up on them. I suppose we’ll see in March, when I’m down in the basement, poking seeds into flats of soil.
Squirrelling Away …
Now the Farmer’s Almanac is saying it’s going to be a very cold winter, and I have to say, if my mania for getting organized and stocking up is any indication, they’re right. It wasn’t a great year for jams and preserves — I didn’t get any cucumbers so I’ll have to make do with what’s left of last year’s pickles, but I did put up some gingered plum jam, some apricots in vanilla-cardamom syrup, peach chutney and tomato salsa. I’m hoping for another batch of tomatoes because I like that salsa — it’s clean and bright and it canned really well.
I also did a “big” grocery shopping this weekend, stocked up on pasta and canned goods and got my supply of beans all organized. I also ordered a few varieties that I’ve run out of, flageolet, cannelini, marrow and some Santa Marias from Steve at Rancho Gordo. While it might seem odd to order a staple like beans online, and while I considered the 69 cent bag of beans in the grocery store, I like Steve, and his beans are so much better — really — fresh, delicious, gorgeous, that I went online and placed a little order. They’ll last me all winter. I managed to resist going crazy in the pasta aisle this time — whenever I get nervous about the state of the world, impending financial meltdown, scary election, the Farmer’s Almanac saying it’s going to be really really cold, I find myself in the 2-for-1 Barilla aisle buying pasta. My brother used to tease me when he’d come home and find the pantry full of blue boxes, “feeling anxious, are we?” he’d ask. I have so much pasta in there that even in my current state of existential wobbliness, I resisted the siren song of dried pasta. It’s cheap. It keeps forever. If you really get stuck, say like in graduate school when sometimes it was a week or so at the end of the month when you were living off your change jar, well, you can always survive on pasta: pasta with garlic and oil, pasta with a can of tomatoes and an onion, pasta with butter and cheese.
And because we all live with our windows open all summer, the big cleaning of the year is not in the spring, but in the fall. It’s windy here, and dusty, so when the time comes to close the windows there is often a thin layer of dirt on everything — baseboards, windowsills, the corners where the vaccuum doesn’t quite reach. It was one of those weekends. I cleaned. I re-organized my closet. I slow-cooked. I organized the pantry. If by some strange chance all roads into Livingston are shut down this winter, I can survive out of my pantry. I’m ready.
Clothesline in my Basement
The weather turned on us last weekend when I still had a load of clothes in the washer and I’ve become so accustomed to using my clothesline that I was kind of upset by the thought of running the dryer.
When I ordered the Clothesline of My Dreams last summer I also ordered this little retractable one, but it had languished in the tool/junk cabinet all summer. It was a cinch to put up — and it seems reasonably sturdy. The clothes take a lot longer to dry in the basement, and since out of sight is out of mind those clothes have been hanging down there for weeks (to do list: must fold laundry), but they’re dry.
When I first moved in there were a lot of clotheslines in the basement — and the eye bolts are still there, but they were strung in such a way that they were always in the way, and yet somehow still a pain to use. We’ll see whether I keep up the line drying over the winter. It helps that I can’t stand the dryer noise.
Stinky Dog
If you look closely you’ll see a bad bad stinky dog’s nose poking out from inside the bathtub. For the second time this week, Raymond found a dead thing in the dog park and rolled in it. Tuesday I took him to the new groomer who is two blocks away, but as great a job as she did, I didn’t feel like paying for grooming twice in one week.
One of the older guys who hang out at the dog park in the mornings suggested this miracle dog de-stinking mix: baking soda, shampoo and hydrogen peroxide in a bucket (actually, he suggested dish soap but I thought I’d at least give Mr. Stinky some shampoo). So I put a towel on the bottom of the bathtub to keep Mr. Stinky from slipping, tied his leash to the washcloth-rod (which I had installed with these situations in mind) and sponged him down with the contents of the de-stinkifying bucket.
It worked! He no longer smells like what I hear is a dead cat.