Snow on the Barbie …

 Snow on the Barbie ... Here’s what we woke up to Sunday morning — a little over two feet of new, wet, heavy snow — the dog door was drifted over, as was the front walkway.I shoveled, and luckily my neighbor with the sno-blower did my front sidewalk because this was like Midwestern snow — heavy, wet, soggy — did I mention heavy?
Usually we have fall, then winter. It’s one of the things I loved when I first moved up here — a return to four actual seasons — but this year we went from summer, to a 20 degree frost, to almost 3 feet of snow. Yikes. Dead tomato and pepper plants, hoping for the best with the brussels sprouts and cabbages and those carrots still in the ground.
And the cold weather has us all thinking of food. I walked into the liquor store (winter weather demands bourbon) and it smelled fabulous. “Oh my god,” I said. “What’s for lunch?” “Ham and beans,” replied the liquor store guy, grinning. He’d closed and renovated the family grocery store (which I missed this weekend when I just needed a couple of things and didn’t want to go across town) but he made sure to put a kitchen in. It smelled fabulous.

And then my friend Debbie called tonight with a great suggestion — the Sunday night single folks supper club — a couple of weeks a month over the winter — a rotating group of hosts — Sunday nights get a little lonely — all of us random singles gathered around a table, eating good food, gathering — which is what it’s really all about.

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That was fast …

 That was fast ...   Here’s what I woke up to this morning — yup, that’s snow. About four inches — and it’s supposed to keep coming down all weekend. Yesterday I woke up to a hard frost — I went to check the tomatoes and they were dead. Dead dead dead dead dead.

So I pulled them up and threw their soggy carcasses into the compost. I salvaged enough late ones to make this big pot of frostbitten-tomato sauce.  That was fast ... That’s the last of the tomatoes, a couple of carrots, and a sautee’d onion — later I added a can of Muir Glen organic tomato paste and ran it all through the food mill. I don’t always get too worked up about the skins and the seeds, but I’ve found with the late-season ones that if you leave them in the sauce gets really bitter. I left the sauce until this morning because I decided to do a Bolognese and the meat needed to thaw out. I thawed a package of ground antelope, two stray Italian sausages, and a pack of elk Italian sausage I found in the back of the freezer. This morning I sauteed up some more carrots and onions, browned off the meat, and added a quart of my good local Jersey milk. I let that all cook down for a while, then added it into the big red pot of tomato sauce with about a quarter of a bottle of white wine. It’s cooking down on the back burner now — later I’ll can it in the terrifying pressure canner.

The markets might be crashing still, but thanks to my anxiety habit of hoarding dry pasta — with six or seven quarts of nice Bolognese on the shelf, I should be fine all winter.

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Real Economies vs. Fake Economies

There’s a really interesting piece in this morning’s New York Times about the town of Hardwick, Vermont and the Center for Agricultural Economy. Hardwick was, like many small rural towns, emptying out — main street was full of empty buildings, and there was no way to make a living. Then a group of local agricultural entrepreneurs got together, meeting monthly, loaning one another money, figuring out ways to share skills and resources so that they all prosper. Their website says that their goal is programs that:

…will recognize that the 21st century food system balance be tipped towards localization over globalization, locally sustainable food systems over long trade routes, and broadened agricultural diversity and biodiversity over intensified crop production

Local systems, local sustainability, local community — look — hippie values back in action, but making money, and building a local economy. It sent me off to the basement library to pull out Gary Snyder, Wendell Berry and Paul Hawken’s books — maybe its time for a refresher course in the economies of sustainability. In the wisdom of old values like thrift, and soil conservation, and organizations based on community.

What I loved about this article was the timing of it. Here we are in a financial crisis caused by a classic crazy bubble — this time it wasn’t tulips, or Web 1.0, but mortgages. If you give people crazy mortgages that they can’t afford, and then you borrow on margins of 60 and 80 times the ostensible worth of those rotten mortgages, well, then I guess you shouldn’t be that surprised when the whole thing blows up. I’ve been just beside myself with anger at all those snotty guys I grew up with who when you asked what they did said “I do money” and then went on to point out that what they did was of course so arcane and complicated that no one but them could understand it. And then they went off and gambled with all of our money and lost it because they decided to pretend that the essential rules had changed when they hadn’t. And now the rest of us will suffer the very real financial consequences.

So in a week when I’ve mostly been livid — it was such a joy to read about the farmers of Hardwick (where my beloved Patrick spent a couple of years when he went to Sterling College in Craftsbury). What I loved about these farmers and ag entrepreneurs in Vermont was that they rebuilt a town by focusing on what is real — real crops, real compost, real products that they can make out of materials they grow themselves. Real cooperation. They banded together. They found ways to buy one another’s surplus and make more products that they could sell. They put money back into the foundation and into one another. They rebuilt a town. The old fashioned way. The way we’ve all been told for the last couple of decades was obsolete in a global economy. They proved that local and sustainable can work.

Ed Abbey called an economy based on the  concept of endless growth “the economy of the cancer cell” — it seems to me that perhaps, although it’s traumatic and is likely to be very painful, maybe we’re seeing the beginning of the end of that way of thinking. The traders who were making millions and millions of dollars by trading pieces of paper that held no real relationship to anything of actual value have seen their entire industry disappear (perhaps now they’ll have a little more sympathy for all those steelworkers and manufacturing workers who have been through the same thing for the past thirty years). Although I haven’t gone to the website and read the details, the fact that Obama is talking at every turn about green technologies being a sustainable growth sector and a way we can earn/innovate our way out of this crisis is very heartening to me. And his message is resonating. It’s making sense to people waking up from a fever dream of consumerism and cheap oil and bad processed food that only makes them obese and sick.

Suddenly, the old values, the ones that Gary Snyder and Wendell Berry and Paul Hawken have been talking about for years are being proven true. I was talking to one of my dog park friends this morning who is opening a store this winter — he’s going to sell canning equipment and water filters and mills to grind one’s own wheat. He wants to start some classes for people who want to learn to do for themselves those skills of basic sustainability that we’ve handed over for too long to big corporations. This is one of the main reasons I moved here — I wanted to be someplace where people still know how to do things. There are still a lot of old chicken coops in back alleys all over town. There are gardens. There are ranchers raising animals. There are elk and deer and antelope filling freezers every fall. There’s an ethic of sustainability and self-reliance and there’s also a real community. So maybe, like the good people of Hardwick, we can keep one another afloat.

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Hockey Pucks …

 Hockey Pucks ... It’s all harvest all the time here at LivingSmall right now — I put tomatoes up this weekend in the terrifying pressure canner, and there’s all that kale and chard I’m going to have to deal with at some point — but in the meantime my Roma beans finally came in — they got such a late start I didn’t think they’d come through, but they’ve been producing like gangbusters for a few weeks now.

I’ve taken to cooking them up in big batches, then freezing them into what I like to think of as hockey pucks. One of the things I love about Roma beans is the way they get silkier and silkier the longer you cook them. I did these in the big dutch oven with some onions and garlic and tomatoes, then froze them in muffin tins like this:  Hockey Pucks ...

Once they’re frozen, I dumped them out (a dip of the pan in warm water helped), wrapped each one in cling film, then put them in zipper bags. They’re great for those nights when you just can’t deal with dinner — a hunk of frozen meatloaf and a hockey puck in an ovenproof dish, half an hour or so in the toaster oven and voila! dinner.

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On Eating Less Meat

As anyone who has been reading here for a while knows, I’m no vegetarian (I tried in college, but I missed sausage, and lamb, and bacon, and cheeseburgers). But I have to admit that with rising food prices, and global warming, and my increasing unwillingness to eat meat that wasn’t raised by someone I know (which means I’m paying a lot more for meat) — well, I’m eating less meat. Mark Bittman wrote a rather inspirational post about this earlier this summer that got me thinking — it’s really easy to just slip into that meat-veg-starch dinner formula. And it’ really sort of boring.

I got my first lesson in meat-as-accent when I lived in Taiwan for a few months in my twenties. My best friend from college went and married a lovely Chinese guy (who has become a big star). One day we were in the Hypermart and Constance bought a small package of greens and Chinese ham. It was a revelation. Sauteed garlic chives with slivers of salty Chinese ham (think American country ham — dense, salty, fabulous). A little soy and sesame oil over rice — it was wonderful. Wonderful like nothing I’d ever eaten in America wonderful. Wonderful like a whole new world opened up — greens as the main part of the dish? with a little ham to accent? on rice? Not something I’d ever experienced before and one of those bellweather dishes by which you gauge all others.

So last night, in honor of my new rice cooker (the old one mysteriously crapped out — it was a cheapo, but I was sad) I cooked up a batch of one of those yummy Lundberg rice blends (this one had brown, mahogany, wild, and some other rices mixed together). Then I sauteed up the last of last year’s pancetta (there’s a new one curing in the fridge), added some carrots, an onion, some peppers from my garden, and a zucchini that my beloved Milk Lady brought me today. When it was all done, I crumbled in some of the Milk Lady’s herbed feta (which is really more like a mozzarella) and ate it over the rice. It was delicious. It was easy — a real work night supper after a week when I’ve been way behind and fried — and most important, it was delicious.

I know, I know — standard hippie fare — veggies, brown rice, cheese — pancetta wasn’t in the original veggie-hippie recipe — but the thing is, no matter how many memories we might have of bad hippie fare, there’s something to be said for the sweet-salty mix of veggies and bacon, and I’m becoming more and more dedicated to the idea of meat as a condiment.  As an element of dinner, not the main attraction.

It’s not that I’m cutting out meat — after all, I have half a pig in my freezer, along with a fair amount of antelope and lamb — but I do think that cutting back a few nights a week can only be good for us all. For our arteries, and our wallets, and our planet.

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Milwaukee — Who Knew?

So, in trying to find my mother an apartment that she can afford, and that isn’t a shoebox, and that is in a building that’s not just full of old people on oxygen, we wound up going to look at some buildings in Milwaukee. I hadn’t been to Milwaukee since my 6th grade field trip to the Stroh’s Brewery, and I remembered it as a grey colorless place, an industrial city full of tanneries and breweries and factories.

Well, Milwaukee has certainly come up in the world. We looked at a number of very cool industrial buildings that had been renovated into big loft-style apartments. The one my mom liked best was right downtown, on the river walk (which I was delighted to see was full of people actually walking on a lovely fall day) and about six blocks from the Public Market.

The Public Market was delightful — it’s not huge — not like Ferry Plaza or Pikes Place, but nonetheless, there, in the middle of what used to be a midwestern food desert — was a building full of fresh produce with a beautiful butcher counter and a bunch of different lunch options. I had a terrific BLT made with Neuske’s bacon (although the Hawaiian plate lunch was also intriguing). And there was a gorgeous fish counter with oysters too. My little mom was very cute — I was teasing her that she was like someone who’d been let out of jail — she loved being in the thick of things and with all those people around. I loved seeing all the renovation and how the downtown had come back to life in such a vibrant way. It was a terrific surprise …

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