Hop on over and check out my recent piece on Culinate: “Rethinking our food priorities: No more cheating on my egg lady“
Monthly Archives: March 2009
Chicken Update
Here are the chickens, after a big week in the shed. This week they kind of sprouted up a little — they’re not so round and fluffy — they’re getting kind of tall and chicken-y looking. You can’t see it from this photo, but they’re starting to stand up and crane their little necks.
They survived a couple of really cold nights out there in the cardboard box in the dog crate, so that was a triumph. On Saturday, I built them a bigger box — taped two boxes together so now they have the whole 3′x2′ dog crate — I added that mini-laying box (although they won’t be laying for ages) and a little stick to perch on. I also made a small flat platform for the waterer — they were tipping it and spilling water all over themselves.
It was a good decision to keep them in the shed. The first week, they were just little peepers — but now they’re starting to smell like chickens. And as fond as I am of the peepers, I have some standards. Dogs in the house are one thing, but no livestock in the house!
Next weekend’s project: the coop — that will be fun. I’m not a great carpenter, but even I can build a box, and put it inside another box covered in chicken wire. Photos forthcoming ….
Clean Beds
This was my other weekend project — cleaning out the garden beds and turning over the soil. I used straw mulch last year, which was a great success, but it was a seedy batch, and I wound up with a sturdy winter cover crop of wheat. I experimented a couple of months ago with just turning it over. But like the grass that I also have troubles with, it kept coming back.
So this weekend I went through each bed, digging out the wheat, and the carcasses of dead vegetables, and turned over the soil, breaking up lumps along the way. It was good solid physical work. It felt good after a long winter inside. And it’s the sort of quiet, repetitive task that gives you time to think about the things going on in your life. The sun was shining, it was warm, I was back in the garden, and all was good.
This compost bin was nearly empty when I started pulling wheat sprouts. I think it’s going to make a nice start to the season — by default it’s a pretty good mix of green and brown. We’ll see — maybe it’ll heat up. But it was a good weekend of real work.
And now I’m ready to start planting.
Chickens in the Shed
This is Raymond, staring at the shed door, because on the far side of that door are four baby chicks in a cardboard box tucked into a dog crate all kept warm by an infrared light.
There were six chicks, but I erred and thought they were too hot under the light, and so two of them caught a chill and gave up their tiny little ghosts. They’re resting peacefully in the compost pile.
Here’s the little peepers. Saturday morning I called Murdochs, our local ranch store to see if the chicks had come in (they’ve had a shortage this year, one of their hatcheries cancelled on them). They’d just unpacked an order, so I jumped in the car at 7:30 to get there before the small children of Bozeman had mauled the poor little things to death.
They only had two varieties — Rhode Island Reds and Red Star Sex Link — so I got three of each. They cheeped all the way home in their tiny cardboard box. So loud for little tiny things — they’re none of them any bigger than a ping pong ball, with downy little proto-feathers.
I wound up putting them in an old cardboard box with nice high sides to keep the draft out, inside the dog crate to protect them from critters, and then covered it all with a tarp to keep them warm. I don’t have electricity out in the shed, so there’s a very long extension cord strung across the yard (Patrick left me several 100 foot outdoor extension cords — the benefit of relatives in the party tent industry).
Last night it snowed, and the temps dropped down into the high twenties, and I’m happy to report that the four survivors seem pretty perky out there. I took a couple of old towels to drape over the tarp to try to keep them a little warmer, poor things. But they’re in there, cheeping away — I’ll have to clean the cage when I get home from dog walking.
And so a new adventure begins. Chickens! I’ve wanted chickens forever, but kept telling myself that I couldn’t have chickens because I have dogs. One of my New Year’s resolutions was to stop telling myself that things I want are impossible — to taks a shot at it. And so, chickens. Chickens!
Tomatoes in the Basement
This weekend I started seeds — tomatoes and leeks right now. I’ve blogged before about my seed starting setup, and nothing’s changed since last spring, so I’ll simply send you to this older post if you want to know the mechanics of how I get things rolling every year.
This year I’m going to give leeks a shot. I love leeks, and they’re so expensive in the store. I tried them once by direct sowing and they didn’t take, so I thought I’d give it one more shot. For the leeks, I simply filled one tray with seed starting mix, then made several trenches in it with a ruler, and sowed the leeks. I bought one of those fancy onion/leek seed starting trays at the garden store the other day, the kind that instead of having cells has long narrow slots, but the slots weren’t very deep, and it looked like I was going to have to transplant them earlier than I’d like to, so I went with direct sowing in a tray. I think I’m going to start the lettuces this way as well. (And next time I’m in Bozeman, I’ll just return the unused tray.)
I started many tomatoes this year, in part because I’m planning to sell seedlings at the Farmer’s Market. Here’s hoping that people will want Siberian and Heirloom varieties instead of boring old Early Girl. I planted 12 cells each of the folowing:
- Mountain Princess from High Mowing Seeds
This is a new variety for me. I picked up the seed packet at the local food co-op last summer. - Marmande from Seeds of Italy I love this tomato. It’s a slightly flat, delicious French heirloom.
- Grushovka Siberian from High Altitude Gardens I’ve had good luck with the Siberian tomatoes in the past — they come in at 3-4 ounces, nice red, round fruits and are adapted for short seasons.
- Olga’s Yellow Chicken from High Altitude Gardens (which they no longer carry so I’d better save seed this year.) This is a nice yellow tomato that I grow as much for the name as for anything else.
- Galina Siberian from High Altitude Gardens A fabulous yellow cherry tomato. Huge indeterminate vines that will grow up and over anything (they’d be terrific in an arbor) and delicious fruit.
- Black Cherry from John Scheepers Kitchen Garden SeedsThis was a nicely-flavored black cherry tomato that I grew for the first time last year. I wish it had come in a little earlier than it did, but once it started producing it was prolific.
- Marglobe from Seeds of Italy Another Italian heirloom — great flavor in a compact round fruit.
- Principe Borghese from Seeds of Italy The perfect canning or drying tomato. Ripens in clusters like grapes.
- Jaune Flamee from Shepherd’s Garden Seeds (originally, this year I started seeds I saved myself, which is good because they don’t seem to be carrying them anymore.) This is a delicious orange tomato that also grows in clusters. I had great luck with this one last year and I’m so glad I saved seed!
- Perestroika Siberian from High Altitude Gardens My goal this year is to take better notes on the Siberian tomatoes — I can never remember which ones were better than the others.
- Prairie Fire from High Altitude Gardens This was my earliest tomato last year — produced a good three weeks before any of the other non-cherry varieties. A Montana native with compact and delicious fruits.
It’ll be about a week or so before anything much happens downstairs on that bench. I’m hoping that things will thaw out enough that I can get the rest of my beds turned over (and cleared of the wheat growing from last summer’s straw mulch). I’d like to start some spinach and onions — I’m growing weary of eating last year’s frozen greens and would love something new and fresh …
What is householding?
In related topics, there’s a terrific article at Culinate today that touches on many of the same topics we’ve all been discussing over here. Take a look:
What is householding? — Making the choice to stay home :: by Harriet Fasenfest :: Culinate.
Beautiful Bread
I made a really gorgeous no-knead bread this week. Even with my crummy point-and-shoot camera, you can see the tiny bubbles along the surface of the crust. This bread not only sprung up like you see, but the entire crust was shattery when it came out of the oven.
This one took two days. It’s been so cold, and I’m such a miser, that my house has been hovering between 57 and 62 all week. I mixed up the regular old no-knead recipe in the middle of the day Monday. Three cups flour (I use half bread flour, half all-purpose, King Arthur only), 1/4 teaspoon yeast, 1 tablespoon salt, and enough water to make a wet shaggy dough. The next morning, it hadn’t really risen much, so I moved the bowl to the living room, in the vicinity of the heater. By evening it had risen, but I didn’t have the energy to deal with it after another crazy day at my real job, so I left it until morning.
The next morning I dumped it out, kneaded it a little bit, just because it seemed sort of stiff. Once it felt all warm and elastic, I shaped it into a nice tight boule, dusted it with some flour, and put it aside to rise.
Again, nothing happened. Too cold in my house, and the surface of the dough started to dry out and toughen up. Back to the corner of the living room side table where it was a little warmer, and I tucked a clean damp cloth napkin around it so the skin would soften up a little. By mid-afternoon it had risen to the point where if you poked it, a dimple remained, usually my marker that it’s time to bake.
So I heated the oven to 425, put my big Le Crueset in to heat up, slashed an x in the top of the bread. When the oven and the pot were hot, I put the dough in, and sprinkled a little water in to make steam.
It was a gorgeous loaf. It really sprang up, the crust was wonderful, and the crumb was very elastic and stretchy. I think it was the long slow cold fermentation that made this one so good. I’ve been making this bread for what, three years now, and one thing I love is that it changes a little bit every time. Sometimes it’s ordinary, and sometimes, it’s just beautiful. Like this one.
Making Things
I’m finding the recession sort of interesting, and frankly, kind of inspiring. It’s easy when times are fat to get lazy — to buy stuff instead of fixing something or making it yourself, but really, just going out and buying things isn’t the way I was raised. I had one of those moms who if you were bored and whiny on a Saturday told you to “go make something” or better yet, “go outside and make something.”
Maybe it’s being from the Midwest. Lan Samantha Chang had a piece in the Sunday NY Times about living in Iowa, and how the recession hasn’t hit Iowa as hard as it’s hit other states because in the Midwest, there’s “an unspoken belief that one shouldn’t pay an unreasonable sum of money for anything that could conceivably be made, grown or fixed at home.” Although I grew up in a very wealthy suburb, we never had much money. Luckily, at least on my mom’s side of the family, I come from a long line of people who like to make things. My aunt has built houses, my grandmother didn’t like doing the laundry when my mom and her siblings were young so she’d sit down of an evening and whip up three new dresses instead, and my mother is an artist. Our default attitude was that if you can’t afford it, or can’t find one the way you want it, take a crack at making it.
So the other day, I ran out of tortillas and I was googling around looking for tortilla recipes when I found this interesting piece over at Culinate by Sara Gilbert about how learning to make tortillas gave her just that much more confidence that she could make things. What I found so fascinating was her very articulate dissection of the negative voice in your head that tells you you can’t, or it won’t be right, or you’ll look ridiculous, or what’s the point in trying. I know that voice all too well from writing fiction, but it really had never occurred to me that maybe that’s one reason people don’t cook. Because they’ve been convinced they can’t make it as well as something from the store. Or that it’s a waste of time to try a recipe that doesn’t work out. I’ve always liked playing around in the kitchen, and since you learn something from even the disasters, I thought her honesty about being afraid to try things was very touching.
So, Saturday morning, I decided to take a crack at flour tortillas. I spent a lot of time last summer fooling around with yeast-based flatbreads, and since my love of my Griswold cast iron skillet knows no bounds, well, it seemed like it would be interesting. The dough was easy — 3 cups flour, 4-5 tablespoons lard (I made some last fall when I bought the pig), some salt, enough warm water to make an elastic but not stickly dough. I made some dough, then took the dogs and ran to the store for eggs and some other staples while it rested. It’s dead simple really. Divide the dough in 12 pieces, roll each one out with a rolling pin (my first few were too thick, but then I got the hang of rolling them out really thin), into the skillet for a few minutes. I like meditative repetitive cooking tasks like this one. By the time you’ve got one tortilla rolled out, it’s time to flip the one in the skillet. It takes enough attention that you can get your mind off oh, the layoffs at work, and it’s just interesting enough that you have to pay attention. I had a lovely half an hour or so making tortillas on a Saturday morning.
And as I was making them I was thinking of people I know who don’t like to make things. The kind of guys for example who would look at you and say “why are you bothering with all that? you can buy tortillas for three bucks.” And I was grateful to Sara Gilbert for her article, because I’ve never really understood the anxiety that making something can inspire in people who have never been encouraged to make things. We made a lot of goofy things as kids — some of them worked, some didn’t. We were okay with the provisional (although the time I was sent off to the fancy pre-deb ball in a skirt with no real waistband, but a cummerbund held together with safety pins was a little more provisional than I was happy with at the time). And because I grew up around people who were willing to give it a shot, willing to try making something as a default, it left me the kind of person who was perfectly willing to get out and whack together some cold frames, even if the carpentry is a little crude. Or who will make tortillas and not be upset that the first few were sort of thick and stodgy, because the last few were really beautiful (and now I know how, and can make them again sometime).
I suppose what it comes down to is that for the last decade or so, many of us who had a little money got lazy. We hired people to clean our houses. We hired people to change our oil. We hired people to cook our food. We hired people to make our clothes. We hired people to do a lot of things for us that our parents would never have dreamed of not doing themselves. And as a result, I think a lot of people got the idea that not knowing how to do anything was normal, and some sort of sign of privilege, or status. I’m kind of hoping that maybe we’ll all come a little bit more down to earth again now. That people will remember that knowing how to take care of our own basic needs is really our own most basic responsibility on this earth, and that with practice, rusty (or nonexistent) skills develop, and become a pleasure.
Fresh Cheese
Unlike yogurt cheese — this is a “real” cheese for which you use rennet and everything.
There’s a biology/chemistry professor in Cincinnati who has a terrific website about making cheese, and I followed his instructions for “Neufchatel” cheese. (Although I did half a recipe — I didn’t use all my weekly milk share.)
This was really interesting — first you gently heat the milk, add a little souring agent (I used yogurt) and a tiny bit of rennet dissolved in water. Then you let it sit overnight. By morning, you have curds — which to me looked exactly like very soft fresh tofu — that same sort of slippery, shiny texture. You cut the curds — the instructions said to cut them into fairly big pieces — and then ladle it all into a collander lined with cheesecloth. You twist the cheesecloth so the cheese is in a tight ball, secure it with a rubber band, and hang it to drain. I used my deepest stockpot, and suspended the cheese from a wooden spoon balanced on the top of the pot. The whey collected in the pot, and I could put the whole thing in the pantry where it’s cool.
The only mistake I made was not being patient enough. I didn’t let the cheese hang long enough, and although I tried some on toast, I didn’t like the texture. It was still weirdly slippery. So I put it back in the cheesecloth and let it hang for another seven or eight hours. That did the trick — the texture is now somewhat like a nice fresh goat cheese. It’s not quite as chalky, probably because Isabelle’s Jersey cows give very rich milk, but neither does it have that gummy quality of commercial cream cheese. It’s very fresh tasting, with a nice clean milk taste, that is just a tiny bit sour (in the way yogurt is a little sour — not sour like milk that’s off, just sour like milk that’s been fermented).
I’m very pleased with my first cheese. Who knows? Maybe this will be my recession plan — I’ll learn to make cheese. Considering the way things are going, I might need to …
Snow Day
Sunday was a lovely snowy day. Big fat snowflakes like something out of a movie. About ten, Raymond and I walked to the dog park, and everyone was there which was fun — we walked a couple of laps, all the dogs doing their thing and the “grownups” had a chance to catch up. On the way home, we ran into Anna and Max who were going for a walk with Silas, who is almost three. They had the sled in case Silas needed a lift on the way home. Everyone had that silly smile you get when it’s snowing in a showy sort of way, but it isn’t too cold, and the wind isn’t blowing.
I know winter is getting long, and the grey skies are wearing on people. I’m as anxious as anyone to get out and start gardening, so the snow is putting a crimp in my plans too.
But it’s so pretty, and it’s nice to have an excuse to stay inside and read a book, and work on my novel. To have an excuse to cook something all afternoon that makes the house smell nice, and watch movies on TV, and just rest up in preparation for another big week.

