Category Archives: food

More LA Food Fun …

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While Sushi Nozawa was the culinary highlight not just of my trip to LA, but perhaps of my entire gustatory existence, there was more food fun to be had during my visit to LA.

On Wednesday I went over to Brentwood to have dinner with my oldest college friend and his wife and year-old baby. They were hosting a couple, also with a little munchkin, who were visiting from France and they took over the cooking duties. Now my old friend Matt grew up to be kind of a big deal studio executive, and so people bring him really really nice bottles of wine when they come over. Matt doesn’t really drink, but since we were having a Francophile home dinner, Matt opened a bottle of wine. It was a Margaux — It was delicious. I love Bordeaux, and this one was, as one might expect, quite yummy. Sam and Ali were roasting a chicken over some vegetables, they made a lovely little endive, blue cheese and dried cranberry salad, and toasted some croutons to soak up the lovely chicken juices. Ali also made a lovely tarte tatin with phyllo dough for a crust — simple, easy, and absolutely wonderful. We drank most of the fabulous Margaux with cheese while watching the babies and waiting for the chicken to roast. Then Matt and Sam went off to see what else Matt had squirreled away in his cellar — they came back with a lovely lovely Stag’s Leap Pinot which we also enjoyed.

We’ve been talking endlessly about how people don’t cook, and Matt and Paige don’t cook much — he’s got a huge job, and she’s starting this very fabulous eco baby store called The Little Seed, and baby Jackson isn’t eating real food yet, so I think like so many people I know, they’ve just gotten out of the habit. It was such a pleasure not to eat takeout — to hang out in a kitchen full of the lovely smell of roasted chicken and to catch up with my old old friend, and to meet his new friends who were beyond lovely, and then to all sit down at the table together.

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Sushi Nozawa

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When I was in LA last week, Nina and I managed to sneak away to Sushi Nozawa for a quick lunch. If you Google Sushi Nozawa, you’ll find all sorts of posts about how Nozawa-san is known as the “sushi nazi” and that he’s thrown all sorts of famous people out of the restaurant.

It’s a completely unassuming little restaurant in a strip mall in Studio City — when you walk in there are perhaps ten little tables — two- and four-tops and a small bar that seats maybe eight people. We were worried we’d be too late to sit at the bar, which is the whole point of going to Nozawa, but we got the last two seats. We smiled, sat down, ordered an iced green tea each, and then the fun began.

There’s no ordering at Nozawa. They simply bring you things. I love this because what do I know from the best sushi in the place? Nozawa-san bought the fish, he knows what’s best, and I was more than happy to put myself in his hands. First off was a plate of tuna sashimi, with a little tiny bit of soy and ginger and scallion on it — this was a big plate of tuna for the two of us, and it was absolutely delicious. Then came sashimi — I’m not sure what the first one was because sometimes they don’t tell you, they just hand you things. The fish was spectacular, and the rice is just slightly warm, which was absolutely lovely. The ones I liked the best (an understatement, the best things I’ve ever put in my mouth would be more like it) were the halibut, and the black cod. And then there were the hand rolls — perfectly toasted nori around that delicious warm sushi rice — we had three different ones, at different points in our meal: crab, salmon, and lobster. I’m not a huge crab fan but the crab in this roll was so delicious — each roll was about three bites, perfect perfect perfect.
I don’t know why people have any kind of problem with Nozawa-san — it’s so clear that one should put oneself entirely in his hands. His fish is so gorgeous, his light light sauces are so perfect, every taste is absolutely delicious. The pace is speedy, and the prices are steep, but it was probably the best meal I’ve ever eaten in my life.

And aside from the twins birthday party, the absolute highlight of my trip to LA.

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LivingSmall in LA

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Here at LivingSmall we’re closing up shop for the week — I’m heading south to stay with my friends the striking screenwriters (if I make it to the picket lines, I’ll be sure to get a photo). We completely support the striking screenwriters here at LivingSmall (for what it’s worth). I’ve got a hunk of pancetta and some dried morels to contribute to the feast, and then on Friday, the big event is that the miracle babies are turning three! They’re big girls now — talking to one another and singing songs and generally getting into all sorts of trouble.

So we’ll be back online starting the 26th. Have a great Turkey everyone! Personally, I’m looking forward to some good sushi …

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Thanksgiving Tips and Tricks?

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Well, now that we’ve explored the strange and wonderful world of bizarre holiday foods — let’s talk about tips and tricks for getting that big ceremonial meal on the table …

My mother just called and my cousin Denise wants to know how I did the turkey last year because apparently she remembers it as being especially good — honestly, I can’t really remember. I’m pretty sure I bought an organic bird because those frozen ones shot full of stuff freak me out — and really, if you can get a nice fresh organic turkey, it’s worth the hassle and the expense. I know I didn’t stuff it, because I think stuffing the bird is a sure way to dry it out, and frankly, I get a tiny bit skeeved out by the stodginess of stuffing done inside the bird. I tend to cook a turkey like a big chicken — and since I have a near mystical faith in the power of a roasted chicken to make everything right in the world, I figure a turkey is just a bigger bird for a bigger group.

So, because it is such a big bird, and because the breast tends to dry out — I like to take at least a stick of soft butter and mash it up with a bunch of garlic and herbs into a paste (whichever herbs you like — my favorites are thyme, sage, rosemary, and some parsley for that nice fresh green taste). And although it’s a little bit fiddly, you can smush it in under the skin either from the cavity end or the neck end, depending on where it’s easier to get in between the skin and the flesh. I have short stumpy little fingers, so I use a spatula to get the butter stuff in there, and then you can kind of massage it around to spread it — and of course, the butter will melt once you put the bird in the oven so don’t worry if there are lumps. Then lots and lots of salt and pepper on the skin and you’re ready to go.
Because I don’t like bread stuffing inside the bird, I stuff the cavity with lemons, herbs, garlic, and a couple of onions. Poke lots of holes in the rind of the lemons, or chop them into halves or quarters so you can jam more of them in there if you want. But citrus and onion inside the cavity gives the bird a nice fresh flavor, and keeps it moist.

I might have gotten fancy last year and started the bird breast side down as well. I usually start chickens that way. It crisps up the skin on the back nicely, and I think it helps keep the breast meat juicy. For a chicken I usually cook them at 425 for an hour and a half (remember, we’re at altitude here, so things take longer — at sea level an hour might suffice). I do the chicken breast down for the first 45 minutes, then flip it for another 45. For a turkey I’d suggest looking in Joy of Cooking or some other standard cookbook for temperatures and times — Like a chicken, I think I did the turkey half and half last year — the trick is if the bird is enormous to get one of those big strong men lounging by the football game to help you when it’s time to flip the bird. Also, I just use potholders right on the hot bird — yes they get greasy but that’s what the washing machine is for — just toss them in afterwards.

So, that’s my turkey process — it’s just a big bird, it’s not rocket science. Use some common sense, keep an eye on it and have a nice time chatting with everyone while it cooks. As for the other stuff — we’re not really a gravy people, so that’s never been a source of anxiety in my family — a little jus made from the drippings and some beurre maniere and some booze and we’re good to go. I do stuffing on the side, in a baking dish and don’t really have any standard one — they’re all good — I’m partial to stuffing with sausage in it. My cousin Dede does a nice mix of mashed potatoes and mashed turnips that’s yummy. I like brussel sprouts with some pancetta done in the oven until the sprouts are brown and yummy and the bacon chunks are crispy. A nice fresh salad, perhaps with some apples and walnuts and a little blue cheese — something crispy and fresh to balance all that heavy food. Champagne, a nice zinfandel and something sweet at the end.

Since you guys all had so many great horror-show dishes to share — what about tips and tricks? What do you tell your non-cooking friends when they call you in a panic about Thanksgiving?

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