Pork-a-Palooza!

IMG 0161 300x225 Pork a Palooza!

165 pounds of pig

Here it is — our whole pig, butchered, cut, wrapped, with the hams and bacons smoked. Chuck drove over to pick it up and he said it was a very festive atmosphere over there — a big refrigerated truck filled with orders.

We paid $290 for this pig, which means we’re looking at $1.75 a pound for a local 4-H fair pig. We were late to go look at the animals with the kids, so what we saw was pigs and lambs being loaded onto trucks. It’s a rural ranching community here — that’s what happens after the fair, you sell your animal for meat, and put the money in your college fund.

IMG 0166 300x225 Pork a Palooza!

pork chops, lots of pork chops

Opening the boxes was like Christmas — ooh look! pork chops! there are lots of pork chops, and a whole ham split into two halves, and a lot of breakfast sausage, and ground pork, and bacon, and ham hocks, and roasts — they cut some of the shoulder roasts into smaller steaks, which will be interesting to play with, and they sliced one whole ham into ham steaks that are about a half inch thick — they’ll be great for a quick dinner or an easy breakfast. The only bummer is that I ordered half the belly unsmoked as fresh side pork, but didn’t specify for them not to slice it like bacon. So now we have a lot of fresh sliced side pork that I can’t really make pancetta out of — it’ll be good for paté, or I can play around with cures — it was one of those cross-cultural miscommunications that happen sometimes. Now I know for next year.

It’s the beginning of fall here in Montana  — the time of year when we all go peer into our freezers, seeing what needs to be eaten to make room for this year’s harvest. There are pigs and lambs and beef by the side or by the quarter, then the game starts coming in — elk and antelope and deer. Chuck doesn’t hunt, but he does let some of his friends hunt on his land, so he gets meat in exchange. It’s a funny time of year — not really cold enough to want to be eating big cuts of meat, but there we are. I made some Cinammon-Chile Short Ribs yesterday from this unbelievable beef that one of Chuck’s friends raises because well, we had a WHOLE PIG coming in, and room must be made in the freezer. I kept looking at him last night and saying “we have a WHOLE PIG in the freezer!” I’m the kind of person who stockpiles dried pasta when I start feeling financially wobbly, so you can only imagine how safe I feel with a WHOLE PIG in the freezer.

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Back on Track

ChickenSeeSaw 300x212 Back on Track

From: American Poultry Culture, R.B. Sando, 1909 (gift from Chuck)

It’s been interesting, this “self-employment” thing. I must admit, I’ve taken a very big break — amazing how many things one can get behind on after working a real day job for ten years. I realize that most people work “real day jobs” for their entire career, so I’m not trying to be disengenuous, but before the Big Corporate Job That Vanished, I was a grad student and a ski bum and a raft guide and worked a lot of odd jobs and retail. I’ve worked since I was fourteen, and for most of that time I had more than one job, but it was only this last ten years where I had a real, everyday job where you worked on weekdays, and got official vacations and all that.

And so it feels a lot more like “normal” life to be back out here on the “outside” — a little freaky at times, that was a big security net I just lost, but on the other hand, I’ve had a lovely long break. I got things done in the yard. Chuck and I went camping a couple of times. My beloved stepmother came to visit and we went mushroom hunting (photos to come). I read books. I did laundry. I got the snow tires off my car. I spent time with my pretend children.

And now I’m more than ready to get back to work. There’s some freelance work on the horizon and a novel to write and a whole new schedule and budget and way of life to figure out.  So we’ll see how it plays out. Like I said, I’m a little freaked out, but there’s a bushel of apples stored in the basement, six eggs a day coming in from the chickens, and Chuck’s off to Big Timber this afternoon to pick up the pig we bought (butchered, wrapped, hams and bacon and sausage) so at least I know I won’t starve this winter.

The beginning of a new adventure ….

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Monster Morel

p1300032 150x150 Monster Morel Yes folks, that’s an 8.4 ounce morel! Chuck found it up behind his cabin yesterday morning, growing just at the waterline of the irrigation ditch. It was a monster, but we managed to slay it, cook it in butter and vermouth, and enjoy it on rice (along with some pork chops) last night.

It’s the only place we’ve had any luck this year at all, up behind his cabin. He found a couple of really little yellow morels, and one other black one, not nearly so big as this. It did rain a little this week, so here’s hoping the weekend brings us some luck with the wily morel.

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Chickens on the Ramp

p1210029 150x150 Chickens on the Ramp The chickens spent the first night in their coop last night — we still need to build the fence, but the Carpenter came by and put the door on, and built a ramp for them — I think we’re putting the fence in tonight — they are very funny — they like exploring around, but they’re chickens, they’re not very brave.

So this morning they poked their heads out of the coop, and negotiating the step to the ramp seemed very daring for most of them — the rooster of course was the first one out, checking out the scene for his girls.

p1210030 150x150 Chickens on the Ramp Eventually though they all made it down the ramp, and back into their dog crate (which is there to protect them from the dogs). I’ll have to reposition the plastic things (formerly the bottom of a composter) so they’ll have a little shade — it’s supposed to be 80 degrees today and I’d hate to roast the little guys.

The chicken coop is made from a packing crate — my friend Sabrina had some family things shipped over from England, and the crate was so beautiful that we decided to recycle it. The Carpenter had some old doors he’d used for closets, so there’s a door, and of course, he has a plethora of lumber. He also found an old temperature-sensitive foundation vent, which you can’t see in these photos but which he put on the side of the coop for ventilation. It closes when it’s cold, opens when it’s hot. The whole thing is up on cinder blocks so they’ll have  a shady place to hide on a hot day. I recycled an old wooden wine box I found at the dump as a laying box, and the Carpenter is bringing over some old broom handles to put in as roosts.

Then as soon as we get the fence in, they’ll be a little more free range than they have been. The dogs are off to the groomers this morning for their spring shave, so I think the chickens might get some free time in the yard while they’re gone.

So far so good on the chicken project. With many thanks to the guy who built me a beautiful coop — it would all have been considerably more slapdash if I’d done it myself …

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Morels!

p1130037 150x150 Morels! Here they are — the first morels! (I always want to sing that to the tune of The First Noel.) The Carpenter and I had a great time this weekend finding morels up behind his cabin — mushroom hunting is SO MUCH FUN! I get SO excited when I see one sticking up out of the duff (he laughed at me as I splashed through the irrigation ditch in my haste to get to a patch of three on the far side).

Saturday night we had morels sauteed in butter with onions and garlic over steak, and last night I made a baked macaroni and cheese with morels. And there are more out there — it’s been intermittently rainy and sunny for a week or so, and we haven’t had any snow in almost a week.

Spring! Morels! Delicious delicious mushrooms out there waiting to be found — like presents from the universe.

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Linky Round-up

Things have been a little crazy — work is work, life is good and I’m sort of just enjoying living it without the self-consciousness of blogging. But there are a few things I’ve been meaning to link to –

First off — my friend Craig Arnold, who I went to grad school with at Utah, is missing in Japan. He was researching volcanoes and went missing last week. He’s an award-winning poet (author of Shells and Made Flesh, teaches at the University of Wyoming, and has a teenaged son. It’s all very upsetting — if any of you would like to help out, there’s a Facebook group called Find Craig Arnold with info about how to help.

Sad news yesterday about Dom Deluise, author of one of my all-time favorite cookbooks: Eat This! You’ll Feel Better! I’ve blogged about my love for this book before, and in his honor, I think I’m going to have to go make his grandmother’s cake, the one I make for every occasion. It’s the perfect cake — spongy yellow genoise, split in half and filled with fruit and custard, then “frosted” with sweetened whipped cream and topped with more fruit. I’ve had men propose marriage over this cake at potlucks. It’s fabulous. So thanks Dom for making us all giggle a lot, and for giving me my favorite cake recipe.

The NY Times has a long article on how the American company Smithfield is inflitrating eastern Europe and building industrial hog farms in areas with lax legislation …

I picked up a copy of a cool new magazine about cheese called culture. I really liked it, especially as there were a couple of articles about cheesemaking, and it wasn’t entirely focussed on buying and eating cheese. It’s a terrible time to start a new magazine, so if you’re at all interested, go pick up a copy so it’ll stay in circulation.

Again at the NY Times, Mark Bittman writes about how the freezer is your friend. I am a huge proponent of home-frozen food, and was just noting the other day about how one of the first things you learn when you move to Montana is that you need to buy a separate freezer. My own take on Montana freezer culture is here, at Ethicurean.

I’ll be back later this week with cheese news, photos of the baby rooster (yes! there is a rooster) and garden news. It’s still cold and while it hasn’t snowed in three or four days, it’s still barely spring here. So not much happening outdoors yet.

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Beautiful Bread

pb140025 150x150 Beautiful Bread I made a really gorgeous no-knead bread this week. Even with my crummy point-and-shoot camera, you can see the tiny bubbles along the surface of the crust. This bread not only sprung up like you see, but the entire crust was shattery when it came out of the oven.

This one took two days. It’s been so cold, and I’m such a miser, that my house has been hovering between 57 and 62 all week. I mixed up the regular old no-knead recipe in the middle of the day Monday. Three cups flour (I use half bread flour, half all-purpose, King Arthur only), 1/4 teaspoon yeast, 1 tablespoon salt, and enough water to make a wet shaggy dough. The next morning, it hadn’t really risen much, so I moved the bowl to the living room, in the vicinity of the heater. By evening it had risen, but I didn’t have the energy to deal with it after another crazy day at my real job, so I left it until morning.

The next morning I dumped it out, kneaded it a little bit, just because it seemed sort of stiff. Once it felt all warm and elastic, I shaped it into a nice tight boule, dusted it with some flour, and put it aside to rise.

Again, nothing happened. Too cold in my house, and the surface of the dough started to dry out and toughen up. Back to the corner of the living room side table where it was a little warmer, and I tucked a clean damp cloth napkin around it so the skin would soften up a little. By mid-afternoon it had risen to the point where if you poked it, a dimple remained, usually my marker that it’s time to bake.

So I heated the oven to 425, put my big Le Crueset in to heat up, slashed an x in the top of the bread. When the oven and the pot were hot, I put the dough in, and sprinkled a little water in to make steam.

It was a gorgeous loaf. It really sprang up, the crust was wonderful, and the crumb was very elastic and stretchy. I think it was the long slow cold fermentation that made this one so good. I’ve been making this bread for what, three years now, and one thing I love is that it changes a little bit every time. Sometimes it’s ordinary, and sometimes, it’s just beautiful. Like this one.

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Making Things

pb1100241 150x150 Making Things

I’m finding the recession sort of interesting, and frankly, kind of inspiring. It’s easy when times are fat to get lazy — to buy stuff instead of fixing something or making it yourself, but really, just going out and buying things isn’t the way I was raised. I had one of those moms who if you were bored and whiny on a Saturday told you to “go make something” or better yet, “go outside and make something.”

Maybe it’s being from the Midwest. Lan Samantha Chang had a piece in the Sunday NY Times about living in Iowa, and how the recession hasn’t hit Iowa as hard as it’s hit other states because in the Midwest, there’s “an unspoken belief that one shouldn’t pay an unreasonable sum of money for anything that could conceivably be made, grown or fixed at home.” Although I grew up in a very wealthy suburb, we never had much money. Luckily, at least on my mom’s side of the family, I come from a long line of people who like to make things. My aunt has built houses, my grandmother didn’t like doing the laundry when my mom and her siblings were young so she’d sit down of an evening and whip up three new dresses instead, and my mother is an artist. Our default attitude was that if you can’t afford it, or can’t find one the way you want it, take a crack at making it.

So the other day, I ran out of tortillas and I was googling around looking for tortilla recipes when I found this interesting piece over at Culinate by Sara Gilbert about how learning to make tortillas gave her just that much more confidence that she could make things. What I found so fascinating was her very articulate dissection of the negative voice in your head that tells you you can’t, or it won’t be right, or you’ll look ridiculous, or what’s the point in trying. I know that voice all too well from writing fiction, but it really had never occurred to me that maybe that’s one reason people don’t cook. Because they’ve been convinced they can’t make it as well as something from the store. Or that it’s a waste of time to try a recipe that doesn’t work out. I’ve always liked playing around in the kitchen, and since you learn something from even the disasters, I thought her honesty about being afraid to try things was very touching.

pb110023 150x150 Making Things So, Saturday morning, I decided to take a crack at flour tortillas. I spent a lot of time last summer fooling around with yeast-based flatbreads, and since my love of my Griswold cast iron skillet knows no bounds, well, it seemed like it would be interesting. The dough was easy — 3 cups flour, 4-5 tablespoons lard (I made some last fall when I bought the pig), some salt, enough warm water to make an elastic but not stickly dough. I made some dough, then took the dogs and ran to the store for eggs and some other staples while it rested. It’s dead simple really. Divide the dough in 12 pieces, roll each one out with a rolling pin (my first few were too thick, but then I got the hang of rolling them out really thin), into the skillet for a few minutes. I like meditative repetitive cooking tasks like this one. By the time you’ve got one tortilla rolled out, it’s time to flip the one in the skillet. It takes enough attention that you can get your mind off oh, the layoffs at work, and it’s just interesting enough that you have to pay attention. I had a lovely half an hour or so making tortillas on a Saturday morning.

pb110025 150x150 Making Things And as I was making them I was thinking of people I know who don’t like to make things. The kind of guys for example who would look at you and say “why are you bothering with all that? you can buy tortillas for three bucks.” And I was grateful to Sara Gilbert for her article, because I’ve never really understood the anxiety that making something can inspire in people who have never been encouraged to make things. We made a lot of goofy things as kids — some of them worked, some didn’t. We were okay with the provisional (although the time I was sent off to the fancy pre-deb ball in a skirt with no real waistband, but a cummerbund held together with safety pins was a little more provisional than I was happy with at the time). And because I grew up around people who were willing to give it a shot, willing to try making something as a default, it left me the kind of person who was perfectly willing to get out and whack together some cold frames, even if the carpentry is a little crude. Or who will make tortillas and not be upset that the first few were sort of thick and stodgy, because the last few were really beautiful (and now I know how, and can make them again sometime).

I suppose what it comes down to is that for the last decade or so, many of us who had a little money got lazy. We hired people to clean our houses. We hired people to change our oil. We hired people to cook our food. We hired people to make our clothes. We hired people to do a lot of things for us that our parents would never have dreamed of not doing themselves. And as a result, I think a lot of people got the idea that not knowing how to do anything was normal, and some sort of sign of privilege, or status. I’m kind of hoping that maybe we’ll all come a little bit more down to earth again now. That people will remember that knowing how to take care of our own basic needs is really our own most basic responsibility on this earth, and that with practice, rusty (or nonexistent) skills develop, and become a pleasure.

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Fresh Cheese

pb130034 150x150 Fresh Cheese I made a cheese!

Unlike yogurt cheese — this is a “real” cheese for which you use rennet and everything.

There’s a biology/chemistry professor in Cincinnati who has a terrific website about making cheese, and I followed his instructions for “Neufchatel” cheese. (Although I did half a recipe — I didn’t use all my weekly milk share.)

This was really interesting — first you gently heat the milk, add a little souring agent (I used yogurt) and a tiny bit of rennet dissolved in water. Then you let it sit overnight. By morning, you have curds — which to me looked exactly like very soft fresh tofu — that same sort of slippery, shiny texture. You cut the curds — the instructions said to cut them into fairly big pieces — and then ladle it all into a collander lined with cheesecloth. You twist the cheesecloth so the cheese is in a tight ball, secure it with a rubber band, and hang it to drain. I used my deepest stockpot, and suspended the cheese from a wooden spoon balanced on the top of the pot. The whey collected in the pot, and I could put the whole thing in the pantry where it’s cool.

The only mistake I made was not being patient enough. I didn’t let the cheese hang long enough, and although I tried some on toast, I didn’t like the texture. It was still weirdly slippery. So I put it back in the cheesecloth and let it hang for another seven or eight hours. That did the trick — the texture is now somewhat like a nice fresh goat cheese. It’s not quite as chalky, probably because Isabelle’s Jersey cows give very rich milk, but neither does it have that gummy quality of commercial cream cheese. It’s very fresh tasting, with a nice clean milk taste, that is just a tiny bit sour (in the way yogurt is a little sour — not sour like milk that’s off, just sour like milk that’s been fermented).

I’m very pleased with my first cheese. Who knows? Maybe this will be my recession plan — I’ll learn to make cheese. Considering the way things are going, I might need to …

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Cooking in Clay

pb050027 150x150 Cooking in Clay Cooking in clay is one of those things that you read about in cookbooks and wonder what the fuss is all about — or at least I did, until my mother gave me this funny little pot one year for Christmas. I have no idea where she found it, it was an odd gift, even for her. For the first few years I had it, I assumed you could only use it in the oven. It wasn’t until I was at a party during one of the Squaw Valley Writers workshops and saw Barbara Hall using hers on her stove that I realized you could do that. She told me she’s had hers for decades, and they only get better the more you cook with them.

I have to say, she was right. I’ve come to love this pot, and it’s sibling, the larger bean pot I found at a garage sale. For beans, there’s nothing better, it imparts this subtle, wonderful clay-y aroma to the beans. I know, doesn’t sound appealing, but believe me, it’s terrific.

This weekend I cooked up a batch of black beans. I like having a quart of beans in the fridge — they’re so handy. A few tablespoons in a tortilla with some leftover rice for lunch, or heated up in a pot then pureed for a quick soup, or again, a spoonful or two added to scrambled eggs for an easy easy dinner. And on a weekend, a pot of beans simmering away on the back of the stove in my old clay pot, makes the house smell like home.

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