To Can, or Not to Can …

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Jeez oh Pete, so spring is here, and it seems to have brought along the first “canning is dumb” article. This year it’s at Slate, where last summer, it was at Salon. I’ve addressed this subject once already, last summer, when Salon published a ridiculous piece “debunking” the “myth” that canning will save you money, but I guess if they’re going to write the same article over and over, I’ll have to keep throwing in my two cents.

Canning is useful if you have an excess of something. It’s a method of preservation. If you want to make a hobby out of it, and get all “lifestyle-y” about it and spend too much money and annoy your friends with your esoteric jams, then that’s your business. The rest of us will just keep on keeping on.

Because there are a lot of us out here who still can things because they’re there. I have a yard with rhubarb plants, plum and cherry and apple trees, raspberry bushes and a big veggie garden. I like my own food better than I like most other people’s food, and I seem to be incapable of throwing food out. So I can and pickle and freeze, and then during the rest of the year, I have my own stuff around for gifts or to eat. Sure, it takes a little time, and yes, I give a lot of it away for Christmas, but so far at least, people seem to like their gifts of jam.

And yes, if you’re being all precious about it, and show-offy, then you deserve the scorn of the Slate writer. But most of us out here, who don’t live in tiny New York apartments, aren’t canning out of some retro-impulse. We’re canning because it’s still a practical way to put up excess, and because our Ball jars aren’t lined with Bisphenol-A, and because we just sort of like to.

Debunking my ass. Just wait, this is the summer I’m going to really learn to pickle.

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Nori Lunch

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I’ve been obsessed with nori rolls lately. I got the idea from Cathy Erway’s delightful book, The Art of Eating In: How I Learned to Stop Spending and Love the Stove, which I reviewed for Bookslut about a month ago. After this long winter, I’ve been craving crunch, and veggies, or maybe there’s something in the seaweed that my body craves, but it’s been nori rolls for lunch for a couple of weeks now.

IMG 0232 300x225 Nori Lunch The thing is, nori rolls are actually quite easy. I like the rice warm, so I either make up a fresh batch in the rice cooker, or simply scoop out about a rice-bowl’s worth of leftover rice, add some rice vinegar, and heat it in the microwave. Then spread it out on the nori sheet, and add whatever is around. For a while, I was eating leftover steak, cucumber, and scallion nori rolls. Lateley, I’ve been making a little salmon salad with my near-miss Costco salmon then adding a few slices of my homemade pickled oyster mushrooms (sadly, I’ve run out of these. Thank goodness spring is on its way), some cucumber for crunch, slices of pickled ginger, and a generous sprinkle of chopped cilantro. Roll it all up, slice, add a sliced orange, and it’s a nice lunch. Filling but mostly veg and grain (since the Someone doesn’t eat veggies, I try to load up at lunch). And nice. Pretty. I think it’s good to have a nice-looking meal. It cheers a person up, especially a person who is beginning to worry about the freelance life. Look, doom is not at hand. It’s a lovely lunch!

I’d also think this wouldn’t be a bad choice if you had to go into an office. Not difficult to pack, you can always slice it up in the lunch room or break room, and there you go, nice clean food you made yourself, that didn’t cost you eight bucks. (One reason I often brown-bagged, not only do I like my own food better most of the time, but I’m cheap.)

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Michael Ruhlman: Why Cook?

ruhlman headshot Michael Ruhlman: Why Cook?

Michael Ruhlman started a meme a couple of weeks ago where he asked people to blog about why they cook. Above is his TEDxCLE talk about why cooking is essential to making us human, to making us families, and to making us reasonably healthy human beings. It’s well worth the fifteen minutes (and he’s sort of adorably nervous, as one would be).

He says in the video, and on the follow up post on his blog, that we need to make cooking an imperative. With which I agree. But I guess one of the things I’ve been trying to figure out by writing about it (the only way I ever figure anything out) is why we need to make cooking anything. How did we get to this place where cooking, and I’m not talking elaborate, or slow food, or gourmet, or any of those things, I’m just talking about the simple act of cooking our meals on a regular basis has become so strange? Where cooking for yourself and your family has become the exception, not the rule?

I cook because it would be weird not to. I cook because it’s cheaper to cook for myself than to eat out. I cook because I like food I can’t get here in Montana (the nori roll I ate for lunch, Thai curry, good pizza). I cook because my parents cooked (although my grandmother hated cooking, and we lived on Hostess cakes at her house — they came sanitarily wrapped, an important thing in her kitchen). I cook because I believe that sharing a meal with the person I love is one of the ways we build a life together. I cook because I like to, and because it’s fun, and because I find it creative and a good way to wind down of an evening. But mostly, I cook because it would be just downright weird not to cook. Not cooking would be like letting someone else breathe for me.

So readers, why do you cook — or for those of you who don’t, why don’t you?

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New CookBookSlut Column

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My new cookbook slut column is up at Bookslut:

Greece is the Word.

It’s been a delightful month of lemon and garlic and lamb around here. Several new recipes/techniques going into regular rotation from How to Roast a Lamb: New Greek Classic Cooking by Michael Psilakis, Vefa’s Kitchen by Vefa Alexandiou, and Michael Symon’s Live to Cook: Recipes and Techniques to Rock Your Kitchen.

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Local Hospital, Local Food

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photo by Casey Riffe


There was a good article in the Billings Gazette this week about our local Livingston Hospital. They’ve been making the change to local product and cooking “from scratch” (as long-time readers know, this phrase is one of my pet peeves). It’s been a big success, with 3000 more meals served this year than last, and folks who aren’t sick, or visiting someone, actually going to the hospital cafeteria for lunch. We have such great product around here, and it sounds like Jesse Williams is doing a lot of the same things that Rick Bayless does in his restaurants, thinking ahead, putting up food during times of abundance, building relationships with vendors. In the midst of all these stories about the abysmal state of school lunches, and the way we’re treating our kids like human garbage disposals for processed food, this one gave me real hope.
Here’s the quote:

“When we stopped just reheating prepared food and started cooking again in the kitchen, they (staff) pulled out the stops,” said Jessie Williams, the hospital’s food and nutrition services manager.
Not only has the hospital shifted its focus to whole foods, but it’s buying a large share of those foods from Montana producers. Few would doubt the health benefits, but Williams says the switch is also healthy for her budget.
“This is not that hard,” she said. “It can be done. You just start with one thing, even if it’s just onions. I’ll tell you, it will snowball from there.”

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