Spring in the Paradise Valley

IMG 0224 300x105 Spring in the Paradise ValleyThere are new calves all up and down the valley — they’ve arrived in the past week or so. Not only are they incredibly cute, but they play — a reminder that even beef cattle once had a wild nature, before we bred it out of them. When I leave the cabin in the mornings they’re down there, nestled in the hay, goofing off, nursing, and one bold boy had a standoff with my Subaru the other morning.

Today’s wildlife count also included a juvenile bald eagle on a fence post, a full-grown golden eagle on a roadkill deer carcass, and the usual assortment of mule deer and whitetails. The elk seem to be hiding somewhere up on the mountain, although we did drive through a small band of mountain goats the other day on the Tom Miner road. Mostly ewes, although there were a couple of young rams, their horns just starting to curl. The newspaper also warns that the Yellowstone bears are starting to emerge — so spring is definitely starting to break here in Montana. And we’re all ready for it (although I’m sure we’re going to get another couple of snowstorms).

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Sandhill Cranes Migrating

SANDHILL CRANES CREAMERS FI 300x194 Sandhill Cranes Migrating

I didn't have my camera, so these are Sandhill Cranes off the internet to give you an idea what a crows of cranes looks like.

So I was driving down to the cabin last night when I realized that all those grey things in the field next to the East River Road weren’t deer, they were Sandhill Cranes! There were scores of them — I’m notoriously bad at that sort of estimation, but there were well over a hundred birds in a harvested wheat field, grazing. I’d heard that they do this, but I’d never seen it, so of course I came to a screeching halt to watch for a few minutes.

Apparently they gang up before migrating, they’ll fly around, calling to the other birds and gathering everyone up. Then when the time is right, they’ll ride the thermals way up and shoot south over Yellowstone. We were hoping to see it this morning, but it’s snowing again, which is lovely, but hardly the sort of weather to transport hundreds of five-foot-tall birds into the sky. When I drove back up the valley this morning they were still there, not as many, and with a bunch of Canadian geese, and a few mule deer hanging out as well.

It was amazing. The kind of thing that makes me love living here. I got to the cabin so jazzed about the cranes. I mean, I live here — this is the kind of thing I can just see on an ordinary evening’s drive down valley. It makes me feel more grateful than I can even say.

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Secret Spot

img 0119 150x150 Secret Spot

Petrified Log in Cave

This picture isn’t great (I’m still getting the hang of my new camera) but this is a petrified tree trunk in a cave. Over the weekend, Chuck took me up to a secret spot he found a few months ago where there is a lot of petrified wood, and a number of these big tree trunks either hanging on the cliffs, or inside of erosion caves like this one.

I promised I wouldn’t tell exactly where it is, but it was a lovely afternoon hike while big thunderstorms blew across the Paradise Valley. There was just enough cloud cover to keep us from getting too hot, although we did hit one bad stretch through a high swampy seep where the bugs were enough to drive a person mad.

It’s hard to tell what the geology was here exactly. Somehow the term pyroclastic flow bubbled up from the depths of my brain where my college geology info is stored (Beloit had a particularly fabulous geology department). And from checking Wikipedia it looks like that could have been what happened — an eruption out of Yellowstone that engulfed some big trees in volcanic dust and rock. I loved geology — I couldn’t do the math but the language is so lovely.

Postscript: My biologist friend sent this along: “I showed your blog photo to Josh, the geologist who works for me who got his degree at MSU. He said an actual pyroclastic flow is unlikely to produce a petrified tree, since those flows are usually at 2,000 degrees which will (here’s where the biology PhD comes in handy) incinerate a tree. But a mud flow from a nearby volcano is likely. The mud flows are not so hot and would flow around the standing tree. That’s how the Petrified Forest in Tom Miner basin formed.”

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Monster Morel

p1300032 150x150 Monster Morel Yes folks, that’s an 8.4 ounce morel! Chuck found it up behind his cabin yesterday morning, growing just at the waterline of the irrigation ditch. It was a monster, but we managed to slay it, cook it in butter and vermouth, and enjoy it on rice (along with some pork chops) last night.

It’s the only place we’ve had any luck this year at all, up behind his cabin. He found a couple of really little yellow morels, and one other black one, not nearly so big as this. It did rain a little this week, so here’s hoping the weekend brings us some luck with the wily morel.

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Grizzly Bear

On Sunday, Chuck and I went off on an adventure — we headed over to the backside of Livingston Peak to look for mushrooms and elk horns. We’d just crossed a ridge that bordered private land, and were talking about how goofy the Icelandic horses in the field looked with their long long manes when Chuck stopped suddenly.

About 100 feet below us, under a big fir tree, was a bear. A pretty big bear. Not a stupendously big bear, but big enough. He didn’t seem to see us, and the Icelandic horses didn’t seem too upset, so we figured he was a regular in the neighborhood. Chuck pulled out his binoculars, and because I’m a scaredy-cat, I watched the bear through the little space over his shoulder and under the binocs.

The bear was digging for something under the tree. We quietly got down closer to the ground, as slowly and silently as possible I unclipped my pack and unzipped the outer compartment where the bear spray was (astonishing how loud things can sound when you’re trying to be silent). The bear was still down there, digging around under the tree, eating small plants. Chuck kept passing me the binoculars, but I was too scared that I’d see them fill up with charging bear, so I kept handing them back.

But the bear didn’t charge. We watched him for five or ten minutes before he ambled down the drainage. From what we could tell, he was maybe three to five years old, with a beautiful grizzled coat. He didn’t have a big hump (which is why we think he was young) but he did have big claws, and Chuck said he saw through the binoculars that he had “big shiny white incisors”. He was a gorgeous, healthy bear, doing bear things, and we felt so grateful (even if I was really scared) to have had the chance to watch him for a little bit.

After the bear left, we continued hiking. We bushwhacked up through a lovely fir forest. It was much more open inside than it looked like from the outside — glade after glade, many of which were speckled with yellow Glacier Lillies. We found a very cool exposed ridge at the top, which, when we came around on the downhill side turned out to be a really spectacular cliff. On the way down we followed a creek, which met another creek, and then another one. It thunderstormed in the afternoon, and the creeks came up visibly. We saw a lot of elk and moose sign, as well as some large bear scats, but we didn’t see any other animals.

It was such a fun adventure. Bushwhacking around, looking at things, the bear, and then the kind of soaking rain we so rarely get around here. We made it back to the car, drenched, and about five minutes from being really cold, then drove home through nearly-flooded roads with the heat on high, and the car steaming up, drinking a beer and talking about what a fun day we’d had, and how lucky we are to live here.

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