I’ve written before about the egg-scallion-tortilla thing I love for breakfast — all winter I have to make do with store scallions. They’re fine. Sometimes I add my own frozen blanched greens. But it’s hard — one of the things I hate most about winter.

But now it’s spring! And although it’s been a long time coming, there are finally things coming up in the garden. This morning, my breakfast omelette/tortilla contained a green onion (from the garden), a handful of wild arugula, a big sprig of lovage, some parsley and a handful of chives.

This is the thing about having a garden that I love — this isn’t one of those recipes that would make any sense if you found it in a cookbook — who would buy that collection of things? And lovage? where does one even get lovage if you aren’t growing it yourself? I’d never had lovage before — it’s slightly odd, kind of like a leafy celery. The wild arugula is another surprise — it’s terrific as a ground cover — grows like wild and self sows.

It’s my favorite thing about the garden — wandering outside with my scissors, looking to see what might be yummy …